Thursday, July 22, 2010

The McKittrick Canyon Trail

THE AGAVE WALKING STICK

Agave
Flower stalk
After breakfast, we went directly to the McKittrick Canyon trailhead. There, Mary Ann found the perfect walking stick made from the flower stalk of an Agave. The Agave lechuguilla and Agave neomexicana, or Century Plant, abound in desert and transitional zones of the Park. In earlier times, the Agave or “mescal” provided the favorite food of the Mescalero Apaches, who once dominated the area. Its fiber was used to make ropes, blankets, and sandals, and its heart was roasted and eaten. The flower stalk was fashioned into lance shafts and implement handles. Before the white man invaded their land, Native Americans enjoyed the protection of McKittrick Canyon’s walls and the water that flowed in its valley for over 10,000 years. Although the Spaniards were never very interested in this place, they may have given it its present-day name. According to legend, a beautiful young Spanish girl named Guadalupe was abducted from her village by Indians, who took her deep into the mountains. She was never seen again, and the place came to be known as the Guadalupe Mountains. I wonder if anyone knows the Native American name for these mountains.

McKITTRICK CREEK AND AUTUMN COLORS

McKittrick Canyon Trail
We hit the trail expecting smoother terrain and cooler temperatures. Contrary to our expectations, the temperature was warm, reaching 83 degrees later in the day, even inside the canyon where it should have been more protected.  This was in contrast to the cooler temperatures we had experienced yesterday on the upper Devil’s Hall trail.  As reported by fellow hikers, the terrain was easier than the Devil’s Hall trail, but it was not a cakewalk. Wide stream crossings were usually made of a series of rocks that were more rounded than flat, making it difficult for Mary Ann to get a proper footing.  So I walked ahead and reached my hand back to her to steady her progress. This took some concentration and good humor, but we succeeded in advancing along the trail that crossed these lovely streambeds. There were lots of small loose rocks on various parts of the trail that made walking a chore, and Mary Ann encountered some difficulties in the ups and downs where the steps were a little steep. Anyway, she was a champ, and we hiked a total of about 5 ½ miles that day on the McKittrick Canyon Trail. Fortunately, her new rock crawling skills were required only on a couple of short stretches.

The trail meandered near McKittrick Creek at the base of the canyon. In places the creek bed was completely dry and in others, it was a clear mountain stream fed by an underground aquifer. The stream supported small rainbow trout that had been imported decades ago by humans. About a mile into the trail, after it had turned into the area protected by the canyon walls, we started to see the beautiful autumn colors produced mainly by the Bigtooth maple.
Entrance to Pratt Cabin

Farther down the narrowing canyon trail and past Pratt Lodge, we were covered by a glowing red, orange and yellow canopy that sheltered us from the sun. What a contrast from the Chihuahuan Desert, which was little more than a stone’s throw away!




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